Prisca Visser is a photographer with a love of the outdoors and nature. For the Biesboschlinie she regularly goes out to capture stories. This time she takes a look at the pollarding of willows in nature reserve the Pannekoek in the Biesbosch and then she visits basket maker Versteeg in Wijk en Aalburg.
It is a beautiful day in January as I walk down the dike, into the outlying area the Pannekoek. In the distance I hear a man's voice singing and between the trees I see orange work jackets shimmering. Today I am going to follow the trail of the willow, perhaps the most common tree in this area. Willows are pruned, or "pollarded," during the winter months. Bas is one of the workers responsible for pollarding. "Once every three years the long branches of the willow are cut off," he says. "We have divided this piece of area into three plots. This piece we are pollarding now, the other next year and the back part we did last year." The other men join him. "It's fun working together like this, and beautiful in nature. But it can also be quite challenging with storms and rain. The nicest work is when it has frozen a bit, then you walk pleasantly on the frozen ground." After a chat, they get back to work. Bunches of cut branches are dragged along the narrow paths and piled up across a ditch. I can clearly see that the branches are often cut at an angle. Bas just told me that this is done to prevent the willow from rotting due to standing water in a saw wound. When the pile of branches is high enough, a thick rope is put around it. After all the willows are trimmed, the branches are picked up by truck to be processed. But before I continue, I want to get back to the origins, and the perfect place for that is the Biesbosch MuseumEiland.
The Biesbosch MuseumEiland is already a picture to behold on the outside. Covered by a thick layer of soil, it looks like a huge, tucked-away wildlife viewing cabin. But nothing could be further from the truth. Walking in through the door, I am immediately struck by how bright and spacious it is. The ceilings are high, and the minimalist décor allows the focus to be on the stunning view at the back of the building. There is a smell of coffee and a gentle murmur. Today I am meeting with Peter van Beek, the director of the Biesbosch MuseumEiland. If anyone can tell me all about the origins of willow production, it's him. "No, the willows didn't come here by themselves" Peter tells me. After the big dike breach, the Biesbosch filled up and was at the mercy of the tides for decades. First, rushes began to grow, to which the Biesbosch owes its name. Over time, the slices became thicker and reeds could develop. The inhabitants planted their own willow trees there, so they could cut them for use alongside the reeds and rushes. If the quality was good enough then toes were cut every year, so-called cut willow. For the coarser bundles, there was cutting once every three/four years, the choprienden.
It was leaden work. In the museum there is much to read and see about this. For example, there is original footwear, large clogs covered with pieces of leather to stay as dry as possible. "The shrub workers stayed in the shrubbery all week, especially in winter it must have been very hard" Peter continues. "We can hardly imagine that now." The yield from the cutting grienden, the thin twigs, were used to weave baskets and traps for fishing. The thicker bundles from a chopping willow were mainly for roofing, furniture and, for example, broom handles.
After the explanation, there is time for a tour of the museum itself. We are taken through time, see the origins of the Biesbosch and learn that fishing was important. Everywhere we see the willow as the thread of history. Hanging from the ceiling are several fish traps made of braided willow.
After the flood disaster of '53, the Netherlands rapidly constructed a defense system against the water, the Delta Works. This reduced fishing, but there was a huge call for coppicing willow! Willow branches hardly digest when they are underwater. People began to use huge braided mats on a large scale to reinforce dikes and groynes. The so-called "sinkers" were weighted with stones to stay in place.
Even today, willow twigs are used in water construction. It is sustainable because it grows quickly and also close to the water. The route through the museum is arranged so that we end at what can be seen in nature in the Biesbosch. Beavers of course, but especially in winter the kingfisher with its brightly colored plumage is very visible. In a display case, a stuffed sturgeon is visible. An enormous animal, unbelievable that it swims around here.
My next stop is basket maker Versteeg in Wijk en Aalburg. For I would like to know what happens to the willow reeds once they are pruned. Arie Versteeg gives me a warm welcome and invites me into his scullery. When the coffee is poured, he begins to tell me. Arie is the third generation basket maker and learned the craft from his father. The wickerwork is still done by hand like in the old days. Using some photos and videos, he explains the process. The toes are cut when they are still thin. This makes them most pliable for braiding. After that, there are several options. To get white toe, a twig is peeled and laid out to dry. Bufteen, the reddish-brown variety, is obtained by boiling with peel and then removing the peel. Gray toe is a twig that is dried with peel and all. Before Arie can braid with bufteen, it must first be boiled. This is done in a large container of water that can be heated. "This used to be done over a large oven that we fired with wood scraps," Arie muses. "Our oldest children will probably remember that. Now we are more modern and heat on electricity."
He takes me into his workshop. There is a fresh smell inside; it reminds me of spring. The smell of willow. Arie takes a seat on a wooden board and pulls a low workbench toward him. He is working on a special order from a customer; it is going to be a huge basket. At lightning speed, his fingers fly along the twigs. After each stroke, a firm slap ensures that the wickerwork fits tightly. A cadence develops in the room, braid - braid - clap, braid - braid - clap. After the first rows are made, he cuts off the protruding parts with sharp scissors. The row above becomes slightly different, under Arie's hands a pattern forms in the braided twigs. Admiringly, I follow the movements of his hands, here is a craftsman at work. Finally, I get to take a look around the store. Baskets of all shapes and sizes are piled high against the walls. With some I can clearly see the color difference of white toe or bufteen. I've been looking for a bicycle basket for a while and here I see it hanging like this. That one is going home with me!
Did you know:
- The Biesbosch MuseumEiland is open year-round? Like Prisca, learn all about the origins of the Biesbosch and have a cup of coffee in the restaurant area.
- In the winter months you can take a look at the work in the grove, provided you keep some distance?
- Without pollarding a 'pollard willow' simply grows into a large tree?
- In winter the Biesbosch may be at its most beautiful for a long walk?
- Bufteen are willow branches that have first been boiled and then peeled?
- You can also go to basket maker Versteeg for custom wickerwork?
Would you also like to visit the Biesbosch MuseumEiland and basket maker Arie Versteeg? Here is a list of the locations Prisca visited:
- Biesbosch MuseumEiland, Hilweg 2 in Werkendam. There is ample parking and a charging point for electric bicycles. Especially in the winter period it is wonderful walking in the area. The peace and quiet is exceptional and along the way you will see many animals such as hares, different species of birds and you may encounter a diligent beaver.
- Versteeg Baskets, Polstraat 19a in Wijk en Aalburg. In the store you will find a large selection of baskets, but you can also go there for custom orders.
Text and photos: www.priscavisser.nl. Here you will find all of Prisca's blogs.