Burgundy enjoyment in Altena

There is a stormy wind this morning when I arrive in Altena, occasionally bringing showers. This area used to be part of the Duchy of Brabant where burgundy life originated at court. Court life revolved around luxury and excess but has burgundy enjoyment adapted to the passage of time? I set out to discover if it can still be found in daily life on Altena.

High above the houses of Wijk en Aalburg, the sails of corn mill de Twee Gebroeders rise up, enthusiastically turning their rounds. Inside it smells like fresh coffee, miller Sven is expecting me. With a mug in his hand, Sven begins to tell me. The mill has a rich history, and it is not all positive. During the Second World War, the mill suffered considerable gun damage. After several thorough restorations, the mill has been functional again since 2016.

Sven leads me up the narrow, wooden stairs to the top, explaining the process along the way. Nothing goes to waste, it turns out, in the granary; after sifting the flour, bran remains, which is again sold separately. Sven demonstrates on the gallery how fast he can brake the wings. The view out here is really beautiful. The Afgedamde Maas makes a turn and the sun glistens on the water. A sailing ship glides quietly between the steaming banks.

Higher and higher we climb into the mill, until we are in the hood. The wind picks up, the shaft and wheels creak that it is a pleasure. It evokes a primal feeling of producing food using a force of nature. The grist mill grinds only organic flour and has been certified to do so. All lines of communication are kept as short as possible. For example, there is a farmer in the area who grows organic wheat and bakery Hardeman buys the organic flour for its breads.

The golden and fizzy beer is still a beloved beverage. Hans Anton had already been brewing beer as a hobby. When the opportunity arose, he decided to start a brewery with his brother. The plan was to do so in a shed, but it soon turned out to be too small. An old and dilapidated farmhouse came their way. A substantial renovation later and Magistraat was a reality.

It is still quiet when I walk into the grounds of the brewery in Almkerk. A heavy downpour has washed the terrace clean. A plume of smoke rises from an adjacent shed, what a cozy place so amidst the greenery. Hans Anton takes me to the floor above the dining area. From here you have a beautiful view of the brewery. The brewing process is explained to me. What first seemed like a loose collection of barrels and pipes turns out to be a well thought-out system. The very best part at Magistraat is that you can actually sit at a table in the brewery with a beer and a delicious meal. Some of the tables were crafted by Hans Anton himself from a large walnut tree that stood nearby.

My lunch consists of a crusty sandwich with house smoked salmon. Turns out that cozy puff of smoke next to the patio is a smoker. My fruit beer matches it perfectly. Enjoyment with a capital letter!

When someone mentions salmon fishing, I immediately think of Woudrichem. Not surprisingly, because the river used to be bursting with salmon. The coat of arms of 'Woerkum' has two salmon for a reason. The fish were caught and towed to the harbor on salmon steamers. After the river polluted and fish stocks declined, there was also less fishing. The harbor silted up and turned into a sandy beach.

To give the river more room during high water, the historic harbor was excavated and restored in the late 1990s. There are jetties for passersby, as well as a restaurant and wharf area. Floating on the water you will find the wharf barn D'n Hûig. Much less known than the Fisheries Museum, but this barn can also be visited.

A homely feeling immediately overwhelms me when I step inside. The wooden workshop is furnished with large workbenches and in the middle of the room are two masts on trestles. It is clear that this workshop is functional as well as museum. The walls are covered with all kinds of tools and implements. Store hooks hang neatly sorted under a long shelf that almost bends under the weight of an array of old ship's lamps. In one corner, a stone blacksmith shop is set up. Along the ceiling I can see the bellows used to get the fire up to heat; the anvil stands next to it. "Yes indeed," says Arjan (board member Historische Haven) to my question if these are used. Anyone who needs it for ship maintenance can use it with us.

Arjan goes through a door I had not yet seen. Behind it turns out to be a kitchen that was completely custom-made after examples from the old days. Soft green cabinet doors, tiles with Old Dutch motifs and a wood stove to keep things warm in winter. After chatting together at the table, he asked if I thought it would be a good idea to go for a boat ride. I am always up for a boat ride. Fortunately it has just turned dry outside.

We board his flat-bottomed barge and cruise leisurely through the historic harbor past the authentic salmon steamers so characteristic of this region. They used to be fished, and now there are still enthusiasts who own one. Gently they bob on the dock as we pass, the hood raised high to keep part of the barge dry in case of rain.

The wind is still brisk and the boat is diving into the waves of the Upper Merwede. A flat-bottomed barge is so stable that she is even seaworthy. I'm not worried with an experienced skipper like Arjan at the tiller. The splashing water rushes around us, the sun dries up the weather. Far too soon for my liking, it's time to turn back.

Before turning into the harbor, we moored at the jetty in front of Woudrichem's Rijkswal. The fishermen greet us and show us some small fish they caught. We ourselves go to eat a fish at Wiljo Struik's fish cart. After years on the water as a fisherman, he now has a thriving fish business. When I ask what is eaten most locally, I am told it is the baked gurnard. Wiljo prepares one for us, crispy on the outside and buttery on the inside.

It is also cozy, everyone knows each other. A passing barge is the subject of conversation. "Owned by family," says an elderly lady who is waiting her turn. Oh yes, I've often been on that. Superb. Now it has been sold and has a different name and owner. That's how it goes on the water."